Reef, rainforest, Cairns
Tropical North Queensland
The old Dreamtime beat: Cairns as a base, the reef without a cattle-boat rush, and the Cape Tribulation road taken at nature's pace.


Atherton Tablelands crater lakes and waterfall circuit
West of Cairns the temperature drops, the lakes are old volcanoes, and a waterfall circuit only works if you pick three falls instead of twelve.
Read the atherton tablelands crater lakes and waterfall circuit guide

Mossman Gorge on Kuku Yalanji Country
Mossman Gorge is not a swimming hole you found on a map. It is a managed visit on Kuku Yalanji Country, and it is better when you treat the welcome as the point of the day.

The Daintree and Cape Tribulation at nature's pace
Cape Tribulation is where rainforest meets reef, and it is a poor place to keep a timetable. Cross the river, walk a boardwalk, and stay the night if you can.
Read the the daintree and cape tribulation at nature's pace guide

The Great Barrier Reef without a package rush
A reef day from Cairns can be a cattle-boat or a careful look at one reef. The difference is departure time, passenger count, and whether you are allowed to be quiet in the water.
Read the the great barrier reef without a package rush guide

Cairns as an independent traveller base
The old Dreamtime house sat minutes from Cairns Central because the city still works as a reef-and-rainforest depot. Here is how to use it without treating the Esplanade as the whole trip.